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Beach Morphodynamics

Short, A.D. and Jackson, D.W.T. (2013) Beach Morphodynamics. In: Treatise on Geomorphology. (Eds: Shroder, John F.), Elsevier, Academic Press, Amsterdam, San Diego, pp. 106-129. ISBN 9780123747396 [Book section]

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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X

Abstract

The morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches had it origins at the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University in the late 1960’s, and formed the basis of the Australian approach beginning in the mid-1970’s where it was formalized by Wright and Thom (1977). Unlike the previous fragmented approach to beach studies, the morphodynamic approach provided a time-space framework within which all beach systems could be located at time scales from the instantaneous to the Quaternary, and spatially across all coastal environments. Equally important was the interdependence of processes and morphological response, such that beach systems could be viewed and studied in a state of dynamic equilibrium with the prevailing processes and boundary conditions. This approach enabled the full spectrum of beach systems and types to be identified and characterized and is utilized to examine beach response at scales from the instantaneous, to event, to long-term. This review covers the development of the morphodynamic approach; its application within and across the beach environment; the present level of understanding; and areas requiring more research

Item Type:Book section
Keywords:beach, morphodynamics, beach state, waves, sand transport
Faculties and Schools:Faculty of Life and Health Sciences > School of Geography and Environmental Sciences
Faculty of Life and Health Sciences
Research Institutes and Groups:Environmental Sciences Research Institute > Coastal Systems
Environmental Sciences Research Institute
ID Code:25273
Deposited By: Professor Derek Jackson
Deposited On:20 Mar 2013 12:03
Last Modified:12 Feb 2014 11:09

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